The officials on the border gave us a pretty easy ride into
Uganda (each border seems to have got easier as we’ve headed further south) and
didn’t even bother to look at the car, so we were able to make our way to Jinja
the same day. It’s the first major town
past the border, but we were particularly excited to go there as it’s the
source of the White Nile. Having
followed the Nile right from where it empties into the sea, along through Egypt
and Sudan, seen the confluence of the Niles at Khartoum and then followed the
Blue Nile into Ethiopia, it was good to get to the southernmost point of the
other brand as well. The only key bit of
the river we haven’t made it to is the White Nile stretch between Uganda and
Sudan – we’ll have to see how South Sudan pans out before we can make it there.
The country looked pretty similar to the tropical west of
Kenya, but there were a few key differences – enough bicycles to give Cambridge
a run for its money, central/west African style clothes for the ladies with big
puffy sleeves and, suddenly, LOADS of female backpackers. I don’t think we saw a male muzungu for the first three hours we
were there. Apparently there are lots of
volunteer programmes in Uganda, and maybe girls are just nicer.
We stayed at a beautiful campsite at the confusingly named
Bujugali Falls, which aren’t falls at all since a major hyrdroelectric dam has
been built. The falls and rapids have
now moved further upriver and it was there we headed for some white water
rafting. (For any parents reading, it
was very, very safe I promise!). It was
my first experience so I was pretty scared beforehand, but as soon as we
started I loved it – probably because the water was lovely and warm. Given we’ve driven so many miles along the
Nile and sailed down it a couple of times it was good to finally be in it,
right at the source.
Campsite at Bujagali Falls |
We picked up some useful tips for our journey ahead from the
manager of the campsite, who turned out to be an ex-overland truck driver –
best roads, best campsites, best restaurants in Cape Town, how to get through
certain borders (give the border guards dirty magazines), where to find the
best deserted beaches... Then, we (ie
James) did a couple of pretty tough days of driving to get us across to Kampala
to get mountain gorilla permits and then out to the fabulously named Bwindi
Impenetrable National Park. Having
enjoyed pretty nice tar roads most of the way, the last stretch into Bwindi was
a bit scary – a rough road with some steep drop offs onto farmland and then
into incredibly think jungle as we entered the park. There had also obviously been some rain as
shortly before we reached the park HQ we found a car with several vicars stuck
in the mud. The Beast hauled them out
pretty easily, so we hope they got back to the main road before dark.
Bwindi Impenetrable National Park |
Maybe our good deed was rewarded, as we had the most amazing
mountain gorilla tracking experience the next day. There are about 10 habituated gorilla
families in Bwindi (the others are in
Rwanda and the DRC) and you get assigned to visit one of them. The rangers know where they saw the gorillas
the previous day but they can be pretty far away or hard to find, so we had
heard that people could be trekking for up to 5 or 6 hours in search of
them. Looking at the mountains covered
in thick rainforest we weren’t exactly surprised. Fortunately, the Bitukura family who we had
permits to visit turned out to be hanging out about an hour away from park HQ
so we had a sweaty but fairly short trek to get there. A couple of trackers had gone ahead and were
in radio contact with our ranger, who suddenly led us off the track into thick
bush, cutting a path through with a machete where necessary. A few minutes later we were brought to a stop
and had to put our sticks down and get our cameras out. And then there they were!
The first three we saw were a couple of juveniles and one
infant playing pretty boisterously.
You’re supposed to stay at least 7 or 8m away in case you give them some
horrible disease, but one of them broke off to come and have a good look at
us. He came right up to me so I tried to
look down and not make eye contact as we’d been told – although I reckon I
probably could have taken him.
That
definitely wasn’t the case with the massive silverbacks who gradually emerged
from the trees. They were pretty
intimidating but seemed to be in a pretty good mood and didn’t even mind the
little ones coming and jumping on them a bit.
This chap is known as The Judge - what you can't tell from the photo is that he was constantly letting rip with massive farts... |
We were only allowed to spend an hour there but it really did feel
special (there are only about 800 mountain gorillas in the world), although it
was sad you couldn’t go and play with them as the kids looked like they were
having a lot of fun.
As we left the park the heavens opened and a huge rainstorm
started so we were pretty relieved that we had found the gorilla family so
rapidly. This was the first real rain of
our trip so it was a bit of a shock.
Having been used to perfect/scorching sunshine most of the way, we got a
bit miserable when we turned up at lovely Lake Bunyoni and couldn’t really go
out as it rained all the time. We
decided to head for the border instead and had a spectacular drive through
volcanoes and past mountain lakes into Rwanda.
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